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" Truthfully, I despise hotels. I've had such better experiences staying at people's houses and guesthouses; it's so much more comfortable and homey. "

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" To catch a wave, to stand up - it was just life-changing. There was nothing that even came close. I quit playing all other sports - by the time I was eleven, they were toast. "

" I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second. "

" We dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house, the perfect love, and when we get there, we dream of something else, and the journey goes on. "

" I've never actually even contemplated writing a book or having a book. "

" I've always been a big supporter of the Surfrider Foundation. I started my own foundation, Rob Machado Foundation, which focuses on environmental education for the little people of the world. "

" Nothing could happen to me in the water that would make me want to go on the beach and fight someone. That's just not how I do things. "

" One meal I'm constantly reminded about is when I ate kangaroo tail in the desert in Australia; it wasn't necessarily my favorite, but I will always remember it. "

" I've been very lucky, getting to travel the world with professional photographers. I'd grab their equipment, get a few lessons, and start firing shots. "

" At any given time, there are a lot of million-dollar luxury charter boats cruising around the Mentawai Islands finding the most incredible waves. And yet the people on shore are suffering. The whole scene is wrong. As a surf community, we have to do something. "

" The surfing - the waves in Indonesia are amazing. "

" You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour. "