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" When ramps are in season, we pickle a bunch of ramps and fold that into soup. Pickled pearl onions are great chopped up or pureed. "
Wylie Dufresne
Up
Season
Pearl
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" I've seen cookbooks from lots of great chefs that have been disappointing. A book, to me, it has to have a story. Some of these people, they open a restaurant, and one year later, there's a cookbook. There's not much of a story yet. "
Wylie Dufresne
Year
Me
Great
" It turns out that life in the kitchen is very similar to life on a team. Sports and kitchens are about teams. I found my alternate team sport in the kitchen. "
Wylie Dufresne
Life
Kitchen
Sports
" I was working for a chef a long time ago who told me to not skip steps or be in a hurry. Success in a kitchen is more like a marathon and less like a sprint. Rising up the ranks too quickly isn't necessarily a good thing. This advice was from a guy who was sorry he had done that and didn't want me to do the same. "
Wylie Dufresne
Sorry
Success
Chef
" I would like to, at some point, do a cookbook. "
Wylie Dufresne
Point
Cookbook
Like
" Hollandaise, I would like to pour over my head and just rub all over myself. Eggs Benedict is genius. It's eggs covered in eggs. "
Wylie Dufresne
Like
Over
Myself
" I think it's important for anyone who is artistic to look back on their body of work and be critical. Maybe the Beatles can look back and say everything was perfect, but we've come up with hundreds and hundreds of dishes, and anyone who is honest with themselves has to realize that every single one wasn't an absolute, unequivocal home run. "
Wylie Dufresne
Home
Work
Think
" The most important thing with turkey is to let it rest - most people don't let it rest long enough. It will get juicier the longer you let it rest. "
Wylie Dufresne
People
You
Rest
" People have been manipulating food ever since they realized cooking a whole animal was difficult. Cows don't come in hot dog form. "
Wylie Dufresne
Hot
Animal
People
" I don't think of eggs as being fundamental to the flavor of mayonnaise, but they are to Hollandaise. "
Wylie Dufresne
Mayonnaise
Flavor
Think
" I don't like the term 'dinner as theater,' because that implies something thespian that I don't want to tie into this, but there are plenty of times that people go out to dinner because they want to have an experience. There are, however, probably many more times that people go out to eat because it's 7 o'clock and it's time to eat. "
Wylie Dufresne
Dinner
Time
Want
" Green vegetables are something that fascinate chefs; the ability to keep vegetables green. How do we keep them green? What makes them green? Why are they green? And then that sort of army green. Why do they go from bright vibrant electric green to army green, and how can we avoid that? "
Wylie Dufresne
Why
Vegetables
Green
" I find it much more compelling to make a four-biter that leaves you wishing that you had a fifth. I think 'the tyranny of the entree' is the right way to put it. I don't want to build this giant plate of food. "
Wylie Dufresne
Find
Food
Build
" There's nobody you can call and say, 'So, can you maybe send me your formula for frying Hollandaise?' because to the best of my knowledge, it didn't exist before we did it. "
Wylie Dufresne
Say
Nobody
Me
" My mother made the best scrambled eggs, super-loose and soft. "
Wylie Dufresne
Eggs
Best
Made
" 'Top Chef' is always entertaining - it's hard to stop watching, like a good hockey fight, but no one gets hurt. It's great that the format is so inherently dramatic and can make cooking so entertaining to people who might not ordinarily be interested in a cooking show. Good for the industry all round. "
Wylie Dufresne
Good
Fight
Cooking
" We have fried things in cubes, historically. We tried bars of Hollandaise, we tried different shapes, but it ultimately seemed like the cube was the right shape. "
Wylie Dufresne
Things
Different
Like
" There will never be a right or wrong way to cook something, but there will always be a more informed way. "
Wylie Dufresne
Always
Will
Right
" I really don't do much on the night of Thanksgiving other than bring the wine and carve the turkey. My contribution comes the day after, in the form of breakfast. I usually just forage through the leftovers for things that will go well with eggs. "
Wylie Dufresne
Thanksgiving
Night
Go
" I've been asked to endorse lots of different pieces of equipment. It's not necessarily that it's an awful thing to be asked to endorse something, because it's inherently a compliment to your skills, your abilities, on a level. But sometimes it's just not the right fit. "
Wylie Dufresne
Compliment
Sometimes
Skills
" We have a funny sort of love/hate relationship with critics because, unfortunately, in the art/commerce dance that we do, they drive people to the restaurant. Regardless of sometimes how well we prepare the food, if people don't know that we're out there, if someone isn't talking about us, you guys aren't coming. "
Wylie Dufresne
Funny
People
Relationship
" Fish butchering means a lot to me as a chef; I take pride in it and get a lot of joy from filleting fish, working with fish, breaking down fish, trying to understand fish. "
Wylie Dufresne
Trying
Joy
Chef
" Whites cook at a lower temperature, set at a lower temperature than yolks. That, to me, is very interesting. That has opened up - as an egg lover, that has opened up sort of a world of possibilities, of applications. "
Wylie Dufresne
World
Possibilities
Me
" I think things like 'farm to table' are misleading. I think sometimes that becomes a pedestal or a soap box to get people into your restaurant but is not... it's almost empty in a way. I mean, my food comes from a farm, and I serve it on a table. "
Wylie Dufresne
Food
Farm
Restaurant
" It wasn't the traditional cooking most people do. For me, as a young chef, Thanksgiving meant going to work in the kitchen at places like Gotham, JoJo and Jean-Georges. "
Wylie Dufresne
Cooking
Work
Thanksgiving
" Neighborhoods change. In some ways, it's part of the beauty of New York City. It's in a constant state of flux. "
Wylie Dufresne
City
New York
New
" Okay, a lot of people think that I'm someone known for a love of eggs and egg cookery. Being asked to endorse an egg yolk separator, I mean, I understood where it came from, but it didn't seem necessarily like something that was ultimately worth pursuing. "
Wylie Dufresne
Worth
Love
People
" I think I can poach a pretty mean egg the old-fashioned way. "
Wylie Dufresne
Think
Pretty
I Can
" I've always had fond memories of cooking Thanksgiving. "
Wylie Dufresne
Thanksgiving
Memories
Cooking
" Every dish doesn't have to be showy, and every dish doesn't have to slap you in the face with technique. "
Wylie Dufresne
Every
You
Technique
" Extremely ripe things are not ideal for pickling. If you pour a hot liquid over super ripe strawberries, you're going to have strawberry soup. "
Wylie Dufresne
You
Going
Hot