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All Quotes by author - John John Florence
" Africa is one of my favorite places because there are so many things to do - either surfing or going to see the animals. You can drive two hours or six hours up the coast - or just 15 minutes up the road - and it's probably something you haven't seen before. "
See
Africa
Road
" Every part of me is a surfer. I love surfing, and I love the waves that I surf. So that's the thing that I get excited about most: What kind of waves am I going to be able to surf? Am I going to be surfing alone, or will we be surfing waves that no one's surfed before? Second to that is photography. "
Waves
Alone
Me
" Going to contests back to back, World Tour and Primes, I've noticed a lot more things with my surfing that could be improved for my heats to improve. Staying focused throughout all of those events for months at a time is hard to adjust to but definitely fun. "
Fun
World
Back
" I'd be in elementary school all week, and then on the weekend, my mom would take us to Kauai or to the Big Island or to California for a contest. That was really fun. "
Island
Weekend
Week
" I eat a lot of pasta. We eat relatively healthy. I don't eat fast food, mostly home-cooked stuff. Chicken. Salads. Stuff like that. Oatmeal for breakfast. A big dinner. "
Fast
Healthy
Food
" I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves. "
Waves
Want
Big
" I like to eat really early, 4 or 5 o'clock. That helps out a lot, to digest before you sleep. "
Like
Early
Before
" I like to watch surfers and skaters that are really fast and really powerful and everything flows. "
Watch
Like
Everything
" I love it when people make things look fun and easy. Guys like Dane Reynolds and Kelly Slater and Pedro on a skateboard, they're never forcing it. "
Easy
Never
Look
" I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean. "
Wave
Kind
Fun
" In the past, I had these really high-tech boardshorts. "
Really
High-Tech
In The Past
" I still get scared every time I go out. I get scared taking off; I get scared on the wave, falling, everything. But, you know, growing up with it, I guess you're a little more comfortable. "
Know
You
Time
" I think winning the world tour events is pretty special. They're just so hard to win. "
World
Special
Think
" I want to win a world title for sure. When I'm a little bit older, I'll have a lot of time to free-surf in my life. So I would love to win a world title. "
Time
World
Love
" No one wants to tell you their secrets, because you never know when you might get a heat with them. "
Tell
You
Heat
" One of my biggest influences growing up was Jamie O'Brien. He was like an older brother to me. "
Brother
Growing Up
Like
" That's such a common saying: Just be present, live in the moment. But there's actually really something to it when you really start to learn it. "
Live
Start
You
" The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there. "
Think
Best
Family
" The place where I grew up is the center of surfing. Everyone who grows up on the North Shore surfs, and from October to March, you have the best waves in the world within a 5- to 7-mile stretch. I grew up in the center of these incredible sunsets and all these incredible waves. And then we have the Triple Crown of Surfing. "
World
Waves
Place
" There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again. "
Good
Hurt
Risk
" Training is not quite a thing for me yet. It is definitely on my list of things to do. "
Training
List
Quite
" When you start forcing things, that's when you get hurt. "
Get
Hurt
Forcing
" Winning a world title has always been the dream and ultimate goal. "
Goal
Winning
World
" You go to a contest, and it's like, 'OK, I'm here for two weeks. All my energy, time, thinking, and everything is going toward that.' Everything you're doing is building toward the score at the end. "
Time
Energy
End
" You have to go into every event with 100 percent confidence and just surf your best because everyone there is there to win, and no one is going to give you the heat. You have to win by a mile to really make a heat. "
Heat
Confidence
Go
" You just keep doing stuff, and one thing evolves into another. Then suddenly it's like, 'Oh, wait, I'm here surfing against Kelly Slater and all these guys I grew up watching.' "
Like
Doing
You
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