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" In certain European cuisines, vegetables are cooked a long time. I take the term 'al dente' and use it for vegetables. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

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" For those, like me, who can't rely on being given a home smoker this Christmas, you can build your own approximation with just a roll of tin foil and a big wok or pan for which you have a lid. "

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" I love dishes that feature the various shades of a single colour, making you stop to check what's in there. "

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" Vegetarian and frugal it may be, but the chickpea is one of the most versatile ingredients you could keep in your cupboards. "

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" I have been cooking with preserved lemon for years, using it left, right and centre, but I am still far from reaching my limit. "

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" My dad makes food with very few delicate flavours. "

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" Dried porcini add a substantial, deep flavour to otherwise more neutral vegetables. I use them in risottos, mashed roots and winter soups. "

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" If you can't taste an ingredient, you have to ask yourself why it is there. "

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" I used to have a very unmediated experience of food but, because of the recipe testing, I've lost that now. I can't switch it off even when I'm on holiday. "

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" I like to add something unusual to a dish. "

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" Tiny quails may not seem as impressive as a mammoth turkey, but there is something refreshing about a spread of individual birds on the Christmas table. "

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" Just-poached vegetables show off their natural attributes and taste fresh and light in a way you never get with roasting or frying. "

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" You don't need a machine to make pasta: a rolling pin and a fast hand can create a smooth, if thick, sheet. "

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" Chinese sausage, which is widely available from Asian grocers and online, is sweet, rich, and enticingly smoky. I add it to steamed rice with strips of omelette and a few baby veg stir-fried with soy. "

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" Orange blossom water would make a magical addition to your store cupboard. "

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" How can something that's 95% water be so divisive? Alone among vegetables, the poor, innocent stick of celery elicits the most vicious attacks. "

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" Most of my recipes start life in the domestic kitchen, and even those that start out in the restaurant kitchen have to go through the domestic kitchen. "

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" I have to admit that I can't take a whole fig and eat it on its own as I would a peach or mango. It's just too much. "

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" Greek yogurt with some olive oil stirred in can transform many dishes. "

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" I don't do guilt. Whatever I do, I do it happily. "

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" Shimeji are those odd-looking clusters of small mushrooms you often find in so-called 'exotic' selections at the supermarket. They have an appealing firmness that is retained during light cooking. "

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" Amaranth, the world's most nutritious grain, is available from health food stores. "

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" A great ratatouille is one in which the vegetables interact with each other but are still discernible from each other. The trick is to cook them just right: not over, not under. "

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" Pot barley takes longer to cook than pearl, but an overnight soak in water will speed things along. It's a robust grain that, if overcooked, won't collapse but will become more tender. "

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" Halva works brilliantly in ice-cream. "

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" Too many books are full of recipes that aren't doable at home. They are purely aspirational. They are quite frightening, even for me. "

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" My secret with kale is to add lots of sweet or sharp flavours to offset some of that grassy intensity. "

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" The difference between a bland tomato and great one is immense, much like the difference between a standard, sliced white bread and a crusty, aromatic sourdough. "

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