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" The East Village is where I cut my teeth as a kid. I ran around here on a skateboard. "
Wylie Dufresne
Teeth
Kid
Village
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" People have been manipulating food ever since they realized cooking a whole animal was difficult. Cows don't come in hot dog form. "
Wylie Dufresne
Hot
Animal
People
" When ramps are in season, we pickle a bunch of ramps and fold that into soup. Pickled pearl onions are great chopped up or pureed. "
Wylie Dufresne
Up
Season
Pearl
" There's nobody you can call and say, 'So, can you maybe send me your formula for frying Hollandaise?' because to the best of my knowledge, it didn't exist before we did it. "
Wylie Dufresne
Say
Nobody
Me
" Neighborhoods change. In some ways, it's part of the beauty of New York City. It's in a constant state of flux. "
Wylie Dufresne
City
New York
New
" Whether it be cereal technology or candy technology or snack technology, puff snacks, I'm always curious to know how those things are made and how we can take that technology, those ingredients, and apply it to a stand-alone restaurant. "
Wylie Dufresne
Restaurant
Technology
Know
" Every dish doesn't have to be showy, and every dish doesn't have to slap you in the face with technique. "
Wylie Dufresne
Every
You
Technique
" American cheese is the perfect soft taco. "
Wylie Dufresne
Soft
Cheese
American
" As a pure source of reference, 'Modernist Cuisine' is incredibly helpful. It's like a modern-day encyclopedia, except for a single subject. It's not always the answer, but it's always a starting point. I feel honored to have been able to contribute to it. "
Wylie Dufresne
Always
Starting
Feel
" There will never be a universal way of cooking, but information will always be universally useful. "
Wylie Dufresne
Cooking
Way
Never
" We have fried things in cubes, historically. We tried bars of Hollandaise, we tried different shapes, but it ultimately seemed like the cube was the right shape. "
Wylie Dufresne
Things
Different
Like
" I would like to, at some point, do a cookbook. "
Wylie Dufresne
Point
Cookbook
Like
" It wasn't the traditional cooking most people do. For me, as a young chef, Thanksgiving meant going to work in the kitchen at places like Gotham, JoJo and Jean-Georges. "
Wylie Dufresne
Cooking
Work
Thanksgiving
" I think things like 'farm to table' are misleading. I think sometimes that becomes a pedestal or a soap box to get people into your restaurant but is not... it's almost empty in a way. I mean, my food comes from a farm, and I serve it on a table. "
Wylie Dufresne
Food
Farm
Restaurant
" I have no interest in vegetarians whatsoever. Zero. Less than zero. "
Wylie Dufresne
Than
Whatsoever
Zero
" I think it's important for anyone who is artistic to look back on their body of work and be critical. Maybe the Beatles can look back and say everything was perfect, but we've come up with hundreds and hundreds of dishes, and anyone who is honest with themselves has to realize that every single one wasn't an absolute, unequivocal home run. "
Wylie Dufresne
Home
Work
Think
" Whites cook at a lower temperature, set at a lower temperature than yolks. That, to me, is very interesting. That has opened up - as an egg lover, that has opened up sort of a world of possibilities, of applications. "
Wylie Dufresne
World
Possibilities
Me
" Eggs are one of my all-time favorite foods, and making the over-easy egg is a test of skill. "
Wylie Dufresne
Egg
Test
Skill
" I've seen cookbooks from lots of great chefs that have been disappointing. A book, to me, it has to have a story. Some of these people, they open a restaurant, and one year later, there's a cookbook. There's not much of a story yet. "
Wylie Dufresne
Year
Me
Great
" Green vegetables are something that fascinate chefs; the ability to keep vegetables green. How do we keep them green? What makes them green? Why are they green? And then that sort of army green. Why do they go from bright vibrant electric green to army green, and how can we avoid that? "
Wylie Dufresne
Why
Vegetables
Green
" I like all cheese, but my guiltiest pleasure is definitely American cheese. "
Wylie Dufresne
Like
Pleasure
American
" Typically, you learn how to cook, but you don't know why. We were looking for a deeper understanding of what was happening to our food as we roasted it, boiled it, grilled it, chopped it, etc. And it turned out, as we began to really say what is cooking, what does it mean to cook, there's a lot of science involved. "
Wylie Dufresne
Know
Looking
Science
" I have strong feelings about cookbooks because I am a lover of them and student of them and devourer of them and collect them. I find them to be a great source of inspiration. When I was a cook and not making much money, I always used to spend most of what I had on cookbooks. "
Wylie Dufresne
Great
Feelings
Strong
" We have a funny sort of love/hate relationship with critics because, unfortunately, in the art/commerce dance that we do, they drive people to the restaurant. Regardless of sometimes how well we prepare the food, if people don't know that we're out there, if someone isn't talking about us, you guys aren't coming. "
Wylie Dufresne
Funny
People
Relationship
" I can fry hollandaise, I can fry ketchup, I can fry mustard. "
Wylie Dufresne
Mustard
Fry
I Can
" I find it much more compelling to make a four-biter that leaves you wishing that you had a fifth. I think 'the tyranny of the entree' is the right way to put it. I don't want to build this giant plate of food. "
Wylie Dufresne
Find
Food
Build
" I was working for a chef a long time ago who told me to not skip steps or be in a hurry. Success in a kitchen is more like a marathon and less like a sprint. Rising up the ranks too quickly isn't necessarily a good thing. This advice was from a guy who was sorry he had done that and didn't want me to do the same. "
Wylie Dufresne
Sorry
Success
Chef
" The spirit of pickling is one of adventure and fun. "
Wylie Dufresne
Adventure
Spirit
Fun
" I've always had fond memories of cooking Thanksgiving. "
Wylie Dufresne
Thanksgiving
Memories
Cooking
" My job has changed over the years, 22 years roughly I've been cooking professionally. When I was younger, I aspired to be the star player. Now, it's more I like to sit in the dugout and make sure the team wins the game. "
Wylie Dufresne
Cooking
Star
Game
" I really don't do much on the night of Thanksgiving other than bring the wine and carve the turkey. My contribution comes the day after, in the form of breakfast. I usually just forage through the leftovers for things that will go well with eggs. "
Wylie Dufresne
Thanksgiving
Night
Go