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" When it comes to cooking pasta, the first essential is to make sure you have a big enough pot: it needs room to roll in the water while cooking. "
Yotam Ottolenghi
Enough
Water
Pasta
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" Dried porcini add a substantial, deep flavour to otherwise more neutral vegetables. I use them in risottos, mashed roots and winter soups. "
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" As is always the way with pancakes, the first hotcake to come out of the pan will probably be a bit misshapen. Just scoff it, and carry on with the rest. "
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" Take your average couscous salad, and it's almost always a sloppy mush, no matter how much attention has gone into getting flavours in there. "
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" Miso makes a soup loaded with flavour that saves you the hassle of making stock. "
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" Pizza was made for television in so many ways: it is easy to heat up, easy to divide and easy to eat in a group. It is easy to enjoy, easy to digest and easy-going. It is so Italian! "
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" Polenta is to northern Italy what bread is to Tuscany, what pasta is to Emilia-Romagna and what rice is to the Veneto: easy to make, hungry to absorb other flavours, and hugely versatile. "
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" New-season lamb shoulder, cooked pink, is the perfect platform for a mixture of fresh and cooked herbs. "
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" My dad makes food with very few delicate flavours. "
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" People don't know how good cauliflower is, because they always have this image of cauliflower cheese - awful, sticky, creamy and rich. "
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" My father always cooks more polenta than he needs for a meal. The excess he spreads on an oiled surface and chills. Next day, he cuts out chunks, fries them in olive oil and serves with salad. "
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" If you can't taste an ingredient, you have to ask yourself why it is there. "
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" Amaranth, the world's most nutritious grain, is available from health food stores. "
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" Leeks are normally given the job of flavouring other things, such as stocks and soups, but I find their creaminess and sweet, oniony flavour very satisfying. "
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" Halva works brilliantly in ice-cream. "
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" Believe it or not, I'm as much a fan of a supper shortcut as the next person. "
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" Chinese sausage, which is widely available from Asian grocers and online, is sweet, rich, and enticingly smoky. I add it to steamed rice with strips of omelette and a few baby veg stir-fried with soy. "
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" Fresh egg pasta is traditionally served in the north of Italy with butter, cream and rich meat sauces, whereas dried pasta is more at home with the tomato- and olive oil-based ones of the south. "
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" Going out for a meal, especially for young urbanites, is less about socialising over enjoyable food than about enjoying food as a way to socialise. "
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" You can be vegetarian and eat fish. It's your choice, just say: 'I am what I am.' There are no hardcore divisions anymore. "
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" I rarely cook traditional risotto, but I love other grains cooked similarly - barley, spelt or split wheat. I find they have more character than rice and absorb other flavours more wholeheartedly. "
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" My all-time favourite classic use of ricotta is in gnudi: fluffy, cheesy dumplings of almost ethereal, feathery lightness. "
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" I like to add something unusual to a dish. "
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" When I was a kid, there was always food to be had on the street in Jerusalem, but anything above a falafel stand was mediocre or worse. "
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" As with lemon juice, the more sorrel you use, the more it has to be balanced with something sweet, starchy or creamy - it's a yin-yang approach to cooking that I find rather calming. "
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" In vast parts of the world, people don't eat meat. "
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" Small okra pods have a much more attractive texture than large ones, which, when cooked, can be gloopy, stringy and totally spoil a dish. "
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" My secret with kale is to add lots of sweet or sharp flavours to offset some of that grassy intensity. "
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" TV chefs are not responsible for people's consumption of fibre; this is not our job. "
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" A food processor, or even one of those small bowls that fit on a stick blender, is a real treasure. No, that's not an overstatement. "
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" After all these years of cooking and writing recipes, I am still amazed every time I notice how even the minutest of variation in technique can make a spectacular difference. "
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