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" Pasta with melted cheese is the one thing I could eat over and over again. "
Yotam Ottolenghi
Could
Over
Pasta
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" Poaching white fish in moderately hot oil guarantees soft-textured flesh and allows you to prepare a sauce calmly, without the usual panic about overcooking the fish. "
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" A well-made salad must have a certain uniformity; it should make perfect sense for those ingredients to share a bowl. "
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" There's nothing more marvelously wintery than orange root veg mash; some butter is all it needs. "
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" You don't need a machine to make pasta: a rolling pin and a fast hand can create a smooth, if thick, sheet. "
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" I tend to mean what I say: in life, generally; in recipes, certainly. "
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Life
" For those, like me, who can't rely on being given a home smoker this Christmas, you can build your own approximation with just a roll of tin foil and a big wok or pan for which you have a lid. "
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" Chana dal are skinless dried split chickpeas used in Indian cooking. They have a great texture and delicate flavour. "
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" In vast parts of the world, people don't eat meat. "
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" A food processor, or even one of those small bowls that fit on a stick blender, is a real treasure. No, that's not an overstatement. "
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" Blanching the cloves removes the harsh and bitter bite of raw garlic. "
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" Tossing doughnuts, fritters or fried dumplings in fennel sugar adds grown-up complexity without diminishing the indulgence factor. "
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" It's well worth making your own harissa, but there are some very good commercial varieties. "
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" Tiny quails may not seem as impressive as a mammoth turkey, but there is something refreshing about a spread of individual birds on the Christmas table. "
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" The tang of tamarind is a great way both to flavour and lighten up slow-cooked savoury dishes. "
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" Polenta is one of those ingredients that in many homes spends its days at the back of the kitchen cupboard, on the 'no one knows quite what to do with it' shelf. "
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Kitchen
Ingredients
Many
" Normally, when congee is served, the different condiments and garnishes are placed in little bowls on the side so diners can make their own personal creations. "
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Different
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" Leeks are normally given the job of flavouring other things, such as stocks and soups, but I find their creaminess and sweet, oniony flavour very satisfying. "
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" Celery leaves are an underused ingredient, most likely because supermarkets sell mostly leafless stalks. "
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" Yoghurt cuts sweetness and richness, tempers spice, and makes a dish sing. "
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" Going out for a meal, especially for young urbanites, is less about socialising over enjoyable food than about enjoying food as a way to socialise. "
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Way
Food
" Some breakfast cereals only come into their own as children's party treats: what are cornflakes and Coco Pops for, if not to clump together with melted chocolate and spoon into a cupcake holder? "
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Children
Chocolate
Together
" TV chefs are not responsible for people's consumption of fibre; this is not our job. "
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Job
Responsible
" Hardly any of my most memorable meals have been eaten in a restaurant, and definitely none in one of those fancy marble-floored, polished-silver establishments. "
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" Tel Aviv is the most exciting place to eat in Israel. "
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" Rice and vermicelli is a common combination in Arab and Turkish cooking - it has a lighter texture than rice on its own. "
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" The main distinction for fresh chillies is whether they are red or green, the difference being one of ripeness. "
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" I now understand how varied the world of cultivated rice is; that rice can play the lead or be a sidekick; that brown rice is as valuable as white; and that short-grain rice is the bee's knees. "
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" Gooseberries aren't just for creamy desserts and pies. "
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" Call me tacky, but I love the union of sweet and sour, even in some now-unloved Oriental dishes incorporating pineapple and ketchup. "
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" My maternal grandmother made fantastic ox tongue with velvety roasted potatoes. She cooked sweet red cabbage and lovely cauliflower with butter and bread crumbs. "
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Tongue
Sweet