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" The only way reliably to gauge the heat of any particular chilli is to cut it in half, so exposing the core and membranes, and to dab the cut surface on your tongue. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Tongue

Way

Core

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" Vegetarians in general don't like me. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

General

" Yogurt sauce, as you may have noticed by now, is a regular presence in my recipes - that's because it has the ability to round up so many flavours and textures like no other component does. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Now

Ability

" Fish cakes are perceived as being quite British, and they're always a bit brown and a little dull. "

" For those, like me, who can't rely on being given a home smoker this Christmas, you can build your own approximation with just a roll of tin foil and a big wok or pan for which you have a lid. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Build

Christmas

" Miso makes a soup loaded with flavour that saves you the hassle of making stock. "

" Buckwheat, like Marmite and durian, is a seriously divisive foodstuff, so it needs a seriously capable defence team if it's ever going to make it on to most people's dinner tables. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

People

Dinner

" The way to entice people into cooking is to cook delicious things. "

" Salbitxada is a sharp and lightly sweet Catalan sauce that's traditionally served with calcots - spring or salad onions, grilled whole, make a good substitute. "

" Food that's served at the table in a paper parcel always creates a remarkable culinary moment when opened, because the package is full of aromatic steam from the lightly cooked ingredients inside. "

" The difference between a bland tomato and great one is immense, much like the difference between a standard, sliced white bread and a crusty, aromatic sourdough. "

" Chefs don't use white pepper just to avoid spoiling the whiteness of pommes puree or bechamel. It has a more peppery aroma, with sharpness and sweetness, too. "

" Leeks, like other oniony things, reach a certain peak when fried. It's the subtle sweetness that suddenly becomes evident and works so well with their creamy texture. "

" The natural sweetness of leeks, with their soft, oniony aroma, makes them the perfect winter comfort food. "

" Urfa chillies are a Turkish variety that are mild on heat but big on aroma. They're sweet, smoky, a lovely dark red, and go with just about anything. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Red

Dark

" Celery leaves are an underused ingredient, most likely because supermarkets sell mostly leafless stalks. "

" The unlikely combination of potatoes and pasta does appear in some Italian recipes. "

" Buttermilk's palate-cleansing tartness is one reason it's used a lot in southern India, where meals often end with a small bowl of the stuff served with plain rice and pickles. "

" Sea spaghetti looks like dark fettuccine and has a similar texture - you can get it in health food stores or online. "

" Gooseberries aren't just for creamy desserts and pies. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Desserts

Just

" Most of my recipes start life in the domestic kitchen, and even those that start out in the restaurant kitchen have to go through the domestic kitchen. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Kitchen

Life

" Middle Eastern cuisine has the same depth of ingredients and processes as other cuisines. They just haven't had as much exposure. "

" Fusion food as a concept is kind of trying to quite consciously fuse things that are sometimes quite contradictory, sometimes quite far apart, to see if they'd work. "

" Small okra pods have a much more attractive texture than large ones, which, when cooked, can be gloopy, stringy and totally spoil a dish. "

Yotam Ottolenghi

Attractive

Texture

" I'm a firm believer that the world should be your oyster when you're cooking. People should open themselves to other cuisines - there are a lot of hidden secrets all over the world. "

" Many people struggle to make hummus that lives up to their expectations at home, and recreating a favourite brand or the stuff from your local deli is almost impossible. "

" It's well worth making your own harissa, but there are some very good commercial varieties. "