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" Like parents, cooks shouldn't have favourites, but some recipes inevitably shine more than others. "
Yotam Ottolenghi
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" My all-time favourite classic use of ricotta is in gnudi: fluffy, cheesy dumplings of almost ethereal, feathery lightness. "
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" The kitchen is tough. It's one of the last bastions in civilized culture that sets out to crush the spirit. "
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" In certain European cuisines, vegetables are cooked a long time. I take the term 'al dente' and use it for vegetables. "
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" Chermoula is a potent North African spice paste that is ideal for smearing on your favourite vegetables for roasting. "
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" Tahini is fantastically versatile, its deep, nutty flavour a harmonious match with roasted vegetables, grilled oily fish or barbecued meat. "
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" Hardly any of my most memorable meals have been eaten in a restaurant, and definitely none in one of those fancy marble-floored, polished-silver establishments. "
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" I have had to come to terms with the fact that I am hooked on Twitter. Not good. "
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" A lemon, boiled whole and blitzed, makes a useful base for all sorts of dressings. "
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" It's well worth making your own harissa, but there are some very good commercial varieties. "
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" Some heat, some spice and plenty of citrus are the building blocks of many North African fish dishes. "
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" I can't stand recipes that don't have background. "
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" I do support people eating more vegetables. It's a good thing to do. "
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" For those, like me, who can't rely on being given a home smoker this Christmas, you can build your own approximation with just a roll of tin foil and a big wok or pan for which you have a lid. "
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" I have to admit that I can't take a whole fig and eat it on its own as I would a peach or mango. It's just too much. "
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" Speaking as someone who didn't go through the U.K. school system, with all the culinary baggage that entails, I am inordinately fond of custard in any shape or form. "
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Shape
System
School
" Manouri is a Greek ewes' milk cheese that's light in colour and texture. It's fresh and milky, and goes well with other subtle flavours. "
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Light
Milk
Colour
" Chefs don't use white pepper just to avoid spoiling the whiteness of pommes puree or bechamel. It has a more peppery aroma, with sharpness and sweetness, too. "
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Sweetness
Use
White
" I always preferred my father's pasta the next day, when he'd put it in a hot oven with heaps of extra cheese. It would emerge slightly burned and very crisp on top. "
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Food
Hot
Day
" There's nothing more marvelously wintery than orange root veg mash; some butter is all it needs. "
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Orange
Than
Nothing
" Tossing doughnuts, fritters or fried dumplings in fennel sugar adds grown-up complexity without diminishing the indulgence factor. "
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Without
Sugar
Fried
" Tagliatelle comes from the word tagliare, meaning 'to cut.' Tagliolini are simply thinly cut tagliatelle. "
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Thinly
Word
Cut
" The natural sweetness of leeks, with their soft, oniony aroma, makes them the perfect winter comfort food. "
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" A food processor, or even one of those small bowls that fit on a stick blender, is a real treasure. No, that's not an overstatement. "
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" Chipotles, which are dried jalapeno peppers, give out a terrific smoky flavour - they're warm, earthy and usually not too spicy. "
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Warm
" Most fish require a short cooking time, but cephalopods are the exception to this fishy rule. As with some cuts of larger land beasts, the longer they're cooked, the more tender they get. "
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Cooking
Fish
Time
" Brussels sprouts are really quite versatile. "
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Versatile
Brussels
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" Most of my recipes start life in the domestic kitchen, and even those that start out in the restaurant kitchen have to go through the domestic kitchen. "
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" Food can bring people together in a way nothing else could. "
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People
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" I always pan-fry sprouts - it retains texture and enhances flavour. "
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Enhances
Always
Texture
" Some breakfast cereals only come into their own as children's party treats: what are cornflakes and Coco Pops for, if not to clump together with melted chocolate and spoon into a cupcake holder? "
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